If you’ve ever sliced into an apple from your own tree and discovered a larva burrowing inside, you’ve met the codling moth. It’s a top adversary for home orchard keepers across BC and similar climates.

Here’s how it works: the adult moth (Cydia pomonella) deposits eggs onto young apples in early summer. When the larvae hatch, they tunnel inward, leaving frass and hollowing the core. A single female can lay up to 100 eggs during the season, making vigilant control essential.

Fortunately, you don’t have to rely on harsh chemicals to protect your fruit. Through steady, seasonal practices you can outsmart the codling moth. 

No 1.

REMOVE FALLEN AND DAMAGED FRUIT PROMPTLY

When infested apples drop to the ground, larvae may emerge and pupate in the soil or bark crevices. Leaving that fruit there gives pests a head start for the next cycle.

What to do: 

• Survey your tree least weekly during the active period and collect fallen apples.

• Dispose of them in a sealed bag or garbage, not your compost pile.

• Encourage wildlife like chickens or songbirds to help you by eating clean fruit (but uncompromised ones only).

Why it works:
You’re breaking the pest’s lifecycle before it can reproduce in high numbers.

No 2.

THIN YOUNG APPLES AND BAG INDIVIDUAL FRUIT

Thinning improves air circulation and reduces hiding places; bagging adds a physical barrier against egg laying.

What to do:

• Once apples reach about walnut size, thin them so each is spaced 4–6 in (10–15 cm) apart.

• Slip a breathable paper bag, plastic or mesh fruit bag over each apple, fastening tightly around the stem.

• Leave the bags until 3 weeks before harvest for colour development (or until harvest if you don't care about bleached looking apples).

Tip: Yes, it’s manual work — but for small orchards or backyard trees, it’s one of the most reliable ways to reduce wormy fruit.

No 3.

USE CARDBOARD WRAPS TO TRAP LARVAE

When larvae exit infested apples, they often descend the trunk to pupate. You can use that behaviour against them.

What to do:

• In midsummer, wrap a 2–4 in (5–10 cm) strip of corrugated cardboard around the trunk, held snugly.

• Larvae will crawl into it thinking it’s a protected nook.

• Remember to remove them! You need to remove and destroy (burn or seal in garbage) the band before moths emerge again. If you don't, you'll wind up making the problem worse.

Why it helps:
This is a classic, non-toxic IPM (Integrated Pest Management) tool that takes advantage of insect behaviour to break the cycle of reproduction.

Tip: For hands-on support with codling moth emergence, spraying, traps and supplies reach out to us in late March or early April so we can get you set up before peak pest season. 

No 4.

ORGANIC SPRAY WITH CLAY

Kaolin clay forms a natural barrier that deters flies. We can help you with this or you can DIY with self-sourced products.

What to do: Spray after fruit set with reapplication every 1–2 weeks or after rain. It’s safe for people, pets, and pollinators—and washes off at harvest.

No 5.

GET YOUR TREE IN SHAPE

Prune for Light, Air, and Accessibility: A dense canopy gives moths cover and makes monitoring and fruit care harder.

 

What to do:

• Prune in dormancy (late winter) to open up the center of the tree.

• Remove vertical “water sprouts” and any crossing or inward-growing branches.

• Keep trees at a manageable size so you can reach fruit and traps without ladders.

Why it’s worthwhile:
Better airflow, ease of inspection, and reduced hiding spots all work against codling moth success.

FINAL THOUGHTS

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

Codling moth control is a seasonal discipline, not a one-off fix. Each of these practices—cleanup, thinning & bagging, trunk banding, trapping, and pruning—helps chip away at the problem.

The most critical habit? Don’t let infested fruit linger anywhere near your tree.

If keeping up with all these steps feels like a lot, a backyard orchard expert or arborist check-in can make a huge difference, especially early in your seasonal planning.